I think we can all
agree that coffee played a crucial role in the lives of Confederate soldiers. And,
as it has become apparent to me recently, in reading articles and watching
podcasts, some scholars really don’t grasp the usage of coffee in the Army of
Northern Virginia. We hear the stories about how the Confederates in Virginia
had to make do with no coffee and relied on plenty of coffee substitutes, like chicory,
acorns, sweet potatoes, etc. But my research into Confederate foodstuffs while
working on Feeding the Army of Northern Virginia over the past two years
has led to some different conclusions. (The following is based upon 200 sets of
letters and diaries, with a few reminiscences added in.)
Coffee was a staple
of life in the Old South. It was imported from Central and South America. In
the early days of the war, it was issued to Confederate soldiers in Virginia. It
was mentioned in letters home from Portsmouth and Ashland in May 1861. It was
also issued green. “You would see much to amuse you especially about cooktime.
Just imagine Charly Palmore standing over a hot fire parching coffee in a pan
stirring with a big camp knife,” chronicled a soldier in the 3rd
Virginia Cavalry in June 1862, from Ashland.[1]
Coffee continued to be issued through August. However, many soldiers speculated
that this “treat” might be coming to an end. From Vienna, Virginia, a soldier
in the 2nd South Carolina Infantry wrote on August 3 that "We
soldiers still get coffee for night and morning, but I do not doubt but that
this luxury will soon be denied us. I say luxury. Coffee is the luxury in a
soldier's life. A cup of hot coffee can be better appreciated in camp than
anywhere else...”[2] By
September 1, an Alabama soldier stationed near Fairfax Court House reported
that they were out of coffee and sugar, yet reported on September 10 that they
had coffee, but no sugar.[3]
A member of the 4th Georgia reported in October that they were
drawing whiskey in leu of coffee.[4]
This continued through October, although some soldiers who did not drink would
sell their whiskey rations to soldiers who did, leaving a few tipsy men in the
ranks. On November 28 came the first
mention of rye coffee. A Virginia soldier stationed near Huntersville, wrote
home that "We are living well at present on venison, beef, corn and wheat
bread, rye coffee & sweetened with maple sugar.”[5]
Considering the soldier was stationed in present-day West Virginia, it could
simply have been a problem of getting coffee that great distance.
Coffee was being issued
in early 1862. A Tarheel Heel soldier reported small issues of coffee and sugar
at camp near Union Mills on January 18, and an Alabama soldier stationed at
Louisa Court House wrote of a weekly coffee ration, without sugar.[6]
Coffee then disappears from the letters. A member of the 3rd South
Carolina wrote at the end of April, while stationed on the Peninsula, that they
never saw coffee being issued.[7]
This
holds true through May and the spring campaigns. There are sporadic mentions of
coffee through October. Some soldiers reported having coffee, but it is unclear
if they were being issued, or captured. (This is another topic for a future
post.) Coffee was available for purchase. A Tar Heel officer, near Winchester
in mid-November 1862, wrote that coffee was selling for $3.00 a pound.[8]
By early 1863,
coffee seemed to be in short supply. A member of the 45th Georgia
wrote of wheat coffee in January, while a Virginia officer made mention of “rye
coffee well sugared.”[9]
In March, a South Carolinian mentioned living on nothing but coffee and bread: “We
buy the coffee from sutlers in one pound papers already ground for one dollar.
It is Confederate coffee made of I dont know what. It is a rather poor
substitute , but we make out very well with it.”[10]
There are other mentions of “coffee” in various letters through the spring of
1863, but it is unclear if it was real coffee, or Confederate coffee. One
Georgia soldier did make note in April 1863, while stationed near Hamilton
Crossing, that “pure Rio coffee” was selling for $6.00 per pound.”[11]
There are more mentions of rye coffee following the battle of Gettysburg. Charles
Blackford, serving on James Longstreet’s staff, mentions rye coffee in letters
dated July 16 from Bunker Hill, and July 30 from Culpeper.[12]
This seems to carry true through the end of 1864. Capt. R. E. Park, 12th
Alabama, makes mentions of a sutler selling Confederate coffee for $1.00 per pound.
The coffee was made of rye.[13]
The coffee shortage
changed in early January 1864 (maybe even late December). Thomas Lupton, 39th
Battalion Virginia Cavalry, wrote that that were drawing coffee “real coffee,
none of your confederate compounds with rice, potatoes and lard..."[14]
Coffee was coming through the blockade, mostly through the port of Wilmington.
While the Commissary General wanted this coffee reserved for sick and wounded
men in the hospitals, coffee was making its way to the men in winter camps. A
member of the 7th Virginia Cavalry wrote on February 6 that they
were being issued “a little real coffee and sugar.”[15]
A member of the 44th Georgia wrote on February 17: “We get genuine
coffee occasionally.”[16]
An officer in the 44th North Carolina wrote of “genuine coffee” on
February 19, and a member of the 48th North Carolina mentioned “good
old Rio coffee” on February 20.[17]
This issue of real coffee continues through march and April, 1864.[18]
Coffee rations
(real coffee), seem to continue at a regular pace into mid-1864. A soldier in
the 53rd Georgia wrote from Petersburg on July 4 that he was drawing
coffee and sugar. “We draw plenty of coffee. I am getting so I can't drink more
than three or four cups of coffee for breakfast."[19]
From the trenches, the same month, a member of the 27th North Carolina
thanked his family back home for not sending any coffee: “I am now and have
been for the last 3 or 4 weeks having as much as I can use.”[20]
This continued into early August, but by mid-August, there started to be
mentions in the letter that they were not drawing any coffee and sugar.[21]
Yet in October, a member of the 45th Georgia wrote from Petersburg
that they were getting “some coffee.”[22]
Also from Petersburg on October 14, a member of the 18th North
Carolina wrote of receiving “pure coffee well sweetened.”[23]
Likewise, a member of the 54th North Carolina wrote in December that
they were getting “pure coffee.”[24]
There are sporadic
mentions of coffee into 1865. Of course, by this time, a lot of soldiers were
gone, either dead, deserted, or prisoners. Sources are limited. A soldier in
the 5th Alabama wrote of being issued sugar and coffee on February
26, and on March 2, and April 1. He does not indicate if it is real coffee, or
Confederate coffee.[25]
This is a topic
that really seems to be misunderstood, and really needs some deeper
scholarship. Was the issue of coffee the same for soldiers in the Army of
Tennessee? Was it ever an issue for soldiers on garrison duty in Wilmington, or
Mobile? How about the issue of coffee in hospitals? And then there is the issue
of swapping Southern tobacco for yankee coffee in the many informal truces that
occurred during the war. Did Southern tobacco rise in “price” during the trading
when the North went through its tobacco crunch? Was coffee, or caffeine withdrawal,
an impediment during battle? It seems that many times it is easier to fall back
on the oft-repeated anecdotes that all Confederates were cut off from imported coffee
for the duration of the war. That is simply not true. It is also interesting to
note that Confederate soldiers, in the 200 or so letter and diary sets that I
am using to write Feeding the Army of Northern Virginia, never mention
making coffee from chicory, burnt corn, peas, or sweet potatoes. I’m not going
to say that it did not happen, but the members of my test group are not writing
about it. Maybe it occurred primarily in the civilian population, and not in
the Army of Northern Virginia. Once again, this topic, on the Confederate side,
needs much more research.
[1] Corson,
My Dear Jennie, 2, 10; Wiggins, My Dearest Friend, 3-4.
[2] Wyckoff,
The Civil War Letters of Alexander
McNeill, 77-78.
[5] Driver,
1st Battalion Virginia Infantry, 6-7.
[6] Monroe,
“The Road to Gettysburg,” NCHR, 489; Carter, Welcome the Hour of Conflict, 130.
[7] Everson,
Far, Far from Home, 117-118.
[8] Taylor,
The Cry is War, War, War, 128.
[10] Wyckoff,
The Civil War Letters of Alexander
McNeill, 249.
[11] Allen
and Bohannon, "Campaigning with 'Old
Stonewall', 228.
[12] Blackford,
Letters from Lee's Army, 198.
[14] Driver,
1st Battalion Virginia Infantry, 62.
[17] Wright,
The Confederate Letters of Benjamin H.
Freeman, 34; Dear Aunt, February 21, 1864, "Taking Care of Madison W.
Richardson," 42.
[18] Hancok,
Four Brothers in Gray, 253; McCrea, Red Dirt and Isinglass, 469; Hubbs, Voices from Company D, 232; Mellon,
"A Florida Soldier," 270; Wright, The
Confederate Letters of Benjamin H. Freeman, 35.
[19] Ronald,
ed. The Stilwell Letters, 272
[20] Wagstaff,
“Letters of Thomas Jackson Strayhorn,” NCHR, 323.
[21] Blackford,
Letters from Lee's Army, 272; Wiggins,
My Dearest Friend, 147.
[22] McCrea,
Red Dirt and Isinglass, 518.
[23] Hancock,
Four Brothers in Gray, 283.